![]() They’re down the road, and when I used to live “out in the boonies” I hade a friend with a small shop they’d deliver to for no additional charge or minimum monthly business. Here’s a short list of the O’Reilly #’s, I don’t work for, have any investments/get kickbacks from, or otherwise. As a former professional mechanic, I can’t tell you haw many times it’s the little things like this that “keep ’em coming back again”. This stuff works for anything and everything “electrical” (plugs/wires, bulbs/sockets, harness connectors). I use the CRC stuff that has a pressurized dispenser (UPC 78254051130 abt $14 at O’Reilly for a 3oz can) and a small squeeze gets a small delivery. ![]() If you have good results there, follow the High/Low wires from the switch through the firewall (may be easier from the LH (driver’s) headlight back towards the firewall, and look for the wires, checking them as you find them.īTW, while you’re already fighting the problem, get you some “Dielectric Grease”. After checking, THEN activate switch and check again. Check each of the two remaining terminals WITHOUT changing the switch position. Connect the neg lead to a good body ground and 1st check for 12v+ (light) at Red/Yellow. The dimmer switch has 3 wires/connectors: Red/Yellow (from H/L switch and top/center on connector), Red/Black (to Low), and Green/Black (to High). A quick check for the dimmer switch is to take a tester (I prefer a Volt/Ohm meter, but a probe-type test lamp will work), and turn your headlight switch on. It’s in a pretty grungy location, and always getting kicked/stepped on□. My best guess (40+ years mechanical/electrical) would be the dimmer switch. Sometimes you’ll have a “fusible link” that’s a bit of wire inserted inline on certain circuits, that’s designed to melt through in case of a short. Headlights are (rarely) fused in any way. * Edit : FYI, I just found out that the AGA 2.5-amp fuse no longer exists! It has been replaced by AGA 3-amp fuses, which do come in the correct size (the really short, stubby ones).Īs a small encore, here’s an extract from the ’66 owners manual about fuses:ĭid this post help you? Do you have experience with this subject? Share your thoughts or ask a question in the comments section! They generally come with a little plastic twist tool which makes removal and installation of the fuses a lot easier. New fuses can be found online, in most auto shops and even in radio supply shops. Make sure to use the right amperage for each fuse. Some of them are options and many of them were not available on a stock ’65 Mustang, like for example the emergency warning flasher or the dome light. Note that not all of these are used all the time. 20 AMP – Cigarette Lighter, Emergency Warning Flasher.7.5 AMP – Dome, Courtesy, Map Light, Glove Box and Luggage Compartment Lights, Clock Light, Seat Belt Warning, Door Ajar Warning.2.5 AMP * – Instrument Panel, Cluster Lights, Tachometer Light, Radio Light.14 AMP – Back up Lights, Radio, Gear shifter PRNDL Light, Turn Signal.The following image will help you with this: ![]() Now all that remains is to determine which fuse is responsible for which electrical circuits. Here is a picture and a diagram of what you’re looking for: You will need to get your head all the way in there under the steering wheel to be able to get a good look at it. It’s right above the kick panel, to the left of the steering wheel. On a 1965 or 1966 Mustang, you can locate the fuse box on the drivers side, below the dash. In case of short circuit, the casing will also show signs of discoloration or burning. ![]() For one, the wire inside the glass casing will be broken. You can easily identify a blown fuse with the naked eye. It’s always wisest to disconnect your battery when you’re doing electrical work, but sometimes it happens anyway – whether you’re working on interior lighting, installing a radio or repairing the instrument cluster. This article will help you to locate the fuse box, seek out blown fuses, identify which fuse does what, and to replace the blown fuses with new ones with the correct amperage. When you’re working on your Mustang restoration project you’re bound to blow the occasional fuse or two. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |